INTRODUCTION:
There are places you visit, and places that visit you forever. St. Moritz is the second kind.
I arrived thinking it would be about luxury. The name is heavy with it — champagne, fur, winter Olympics, twice. But in summer, St. Moritz takes off its coat and becomes something else entirely. Simple. Bright. So high that the sky feels closer than the ground.
It sits at 1,856 meters, in a valley so wide the light has nowhere to hide. The Romansh (an ethnic minority belonging to this region known as Grabunden in South –Eastern Switzerland) call this Engadin — Garden of the Inn. Four lakes lie like steps down the valley: Sils, Silvaplana, Champfèr, and St. Moritz.
From Muottas Muragl, 2,456 meters above, you see all four at once, blue and still, and you understand why painters like Segantini never left. He said here is where heaven and earth shake hands.
In the morning, the lake belongs to rowers. In the afternoon, to windsurfers from Silvaplana, and in the evening, it belongs to everyone — couples, children, old men with dogs — just sitting, because the sun in summer does not set till 9:30, and the light turns the mountains pink. They call it Alpenglow, but it feels like the Alps are blushing.
The town has two hearts. Dorf — up, elegant, with Hanselmann cafe where they have served Engadin nut cake since 1905. And Bad — down, by the lake, where 3,000 years ago people were already coming for the healing springs. The first tourists came for winter, in 1864, when hotelier Johannes Badrutt made a bet that his English guests would love snow. They did, and winter tourism was born — right here.
But do not come just for history. Come for the little things. The funicular from 1899 that still climbs to Chantarella. The Segantini Museum that looks like a chapel. The flower trail at Corviglia where in July you walk knee-deep in edelweiss and gentians. The taste of barley soup, capuns, and mountain cheese that smells of summer meadows.
At night, the air is thin and the stars are too many. You walk back to your hotel, and the lake reflects them, so you are walking between two skies.
Known for 300 days of sunshine, beautiful lakes, luxury hotels, casinos and world class skiing, it is where glamour meets pure mountain nature. Small enough to walk, big enough never get bored. This is the starting point of both Bernina express and Glacier Express at the heart of Swiss Alps.
OUR JOURNEY:
Zurich to St. Moritz via Chur — Slow Magic of SBB
We left Zurich HB (main station) at 9:38 AM on a September weekend. Our itinerary included St. Moritz overnight stay, Glacier Express to Zermatt and three nights stay at Zermatt. Later we repented that we should have kept two full days for St.Moritz.
The big clock, the rush of people at Zurich HB can baffle any tourist, but the SBB (Schweizerische BundesBahnen) train was waiting exactly on time — at Platform 09, the red double-decker InterCity (IC 3) to Chur.
The journey began with lakes. First Lake Zurich, then Walensee — so blue it didn’t look real. Inside, the train was quiet and clean. We had window seats on the right — always take the right side to Chur, you get the best lake views.
In one hour 14 minutes, we were in Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland. We had a 6 minute change but not enough time for coffee or a pretzel from the station bakery.
Then came the best part.
At Platform 10, the small red RhB or Rhaetian Railway (IR 38) train was waiting — the one that goes to St. Moritz. Not fast, not fancy, but panoramic. The moment we left Chur, the world changed.
The train started climbing. Through 55 tunnels and over 196 bridges. The Landwasser Viaduct came suddenly — that famous curved bridge you see on postcards. Everyone on the train gasped and lifted their phones. A 6-year-old boy next to us shouted, “We are flying!”
We passed many tiny villages like beautiful Cazis, lovely Furstenau, pine covered Stug, pretty little Preda and forest dense Samedan, few mountain-rivers and picturesque forests.
At 12-55 PM, excited and happy, we pulled into St. Moritz. Cold air, bright sun, mountains all around.
From Zurich’s busy streets to St. Moritz’s silent peaks in just under 4 hours. Only in Switzerland can a train ride feel like a destination itself.
We had arrived, but we didn’t want the journey to end.
And the shuttle service from hotel Laudinella was waiting to welcome us. In less than 5 minutes we were in the hotel. Though it takes 10 minutes from station by walk, but we had luggage so preferred the shuttle.
Post Lunch tour of St.Moritz
We were lucky to get the room in Laudinella before official check-in time. After freshening up and quick lunch we decided to explore this lovely town. It was 2 PM and we were sitting with our feet almost touching Lake St. Moritz. The water was so clear I could see the mountains in it better than in the sky. A boy went past on a paddleboard, and a lady was reading a book with her dog asleep at her side. I did not expect this — I thought St. Moritz would be all casinos and big hotels. It is not. It is lazy, sunny, and quiet.
By 3:30, we were walking up to Dorf. The church bells ring and suddenly every shop smells like chocolate and fresh bread. We stopped at Hanselmann, not for the pastry but because the waiter told me Einstein used to come here for hot chocolate. I believed him.
At 4:00, the little red funicular pulled us up to Muottas Muragl. The door opened and we forgot to breathe. Below us, four lakes lined up like blue mirrors and around them, the Engadin valley so wide it looked painted.
At 6:00, we were back at the lakeside, strolling and taking pictures. The sky and the lake were getting painted and repainted by different colours by God’s own artists. Simply could not leave the spot till dinner time.
Dinner at 7:30 at Laudinella. Good Italian menu they serve with great wines. All of us were very satisfied though tired a bit.
But then, 8:45 PM. I’m back at the lake where I started. The sun was low, the sky was pink, and the mountains were touching the water. People were not leaving. They were just sitting, watching the day refuse to end.
Chur — Where Switzerland Begins
I would like to tell few words about Chur- why it is important.
Everyone passes through Chur to get to St. Moritz or the Glacier Express, but few stop, even we did not –that was the mistake we made. But you should take a break here.
It is the oldest town in Switzerland — 5,000 years old. Romans called it Curia. Today it is small enough to walk in 20 minutes, old enough to get lost in.
*1. The Old Town is a storybook.*
No cars. Just painted houses, little fountains where locals still drink water, and alleyways that open suddenly into a sunny square. St. Martin’s Church and the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption sit on the hill — from there you see the whole Rhine valley.
*2. The Rhaetian Railway starts here.*
Chur is station 0. All the little red trains leave from Platform 10, right next to the big SBB trains. In one station, you see Switzerland change from normal to magical.
*3. It is not flashy like Zermatt. It is quiet, honest, mountain Switzerland. Chur does not try to impress you — it just reminds you that some towns were old before history was written.
St. Moritz – Practical Tips:
- Time & Light:
One should come here for 3 nights minimum. First day you adjust to altitude (1,856m), second day you see, third day you feel. In summer, sun is strong till 9:30 PM — carry sunscreen even if it’s 15°C. The pink Alpenglow happens 20 mins after sunset.
- Transport – The Free Trick:
Any hotel gives you a free bus + mountain railway pass for your stay. Includes Diavolezza, Corviglia, Muottas Muragl, buses, even boats on the lake. Do not buy tickets separately.
- Shuttle Service:
Though hotels are situated close to the main rail station, almost all hotels provide railway station/airport pick up and drop services. It is advisable to book them in advance by contacting the hotel.
- Local food:
Must try ones are – barley soup, sausages on street, Engadin nut cake at Hanselmann (since 1905). Buy to take home.
Water: Drink from fountains — it is glacier water.
- Walks, Not Hikes:
– 30 to 60 min: Lake St. Moritz loop (easy, flat, everyone)
– 2 hours: Lej da Staz forest walk — locals keep this secret.
- Money Saver:
St. Moritz is expensive. Supermarket Coop in St. Moritz Bad has same cheese and bread as restaurants for 1/3 price. Picnic by lake is better than any terrace.
- Weather Rule:
Mountain weather changes in 10 mins. Always carry light jacket + cap, even in summer.
8 .Packing List:
Sunscreen SPF 50, light jacket in summer, layers and heavy winter wear in winters, good walking shoes and water bottles (fill at fountains).
